Review #55: Chevy’s at Watergreen (Apex, NC) – CLOSED
***Since the writing of this review. Chevy’s at Watergreen is closed. It is now Off Kilter Pub. We don’t know much about it. We’ll plan on checking it out, though.***
It’s review #55, and we’re eating a burger at a converted gas station. Is it possible not to think of Sammy Hagar and/or his magnum opus “I Can’t Drive 55”? The answer is no—it is not.
Which is fitting, because I felt about the burger at Chevy’s Sports Bar exactly how I felt about the Sammy version of Van Halen. (And yes, I know that “55” was pre-Halen; work with me here.) That is to say: I wanted to like it more.
Chevy’s had a lot going for it—a cozy, relaxed feel, super-homey service, an admirable beer selection, and fine boneless wings—but the burger (not unlike Van Hagar’s “Finish What Ya Started,” “Poundcake,” and the unrepentant nightmare that was “Dreams”) kept my taste buds well within the speed limit.
Scott’s review: 2.25 out of 5
Being snarky is easy. A professional burgiatrist can delight in delivering a righteous smackdown to a burger joint that just doesn’t get it. What is hard is rating a burger place that you want to like—a place that’s clearly trying but isn’t quite sure what it is yet. Chevy’s is one of those places. A gas station burger joint is funny—I don’t care who you are—but we couldn’t go for the easy joke. (Well, Scott could.) They obviously cared about what they were doing.
My burger, a classic combo of cheddar, bacon, mayo, and pickles, was decent. It was a little overcooked, but the beefy flavor came through. The pretzel bun was a little dry. My rating comes with an asterisk to denote that I’d like to go back when they’ve finished renovating and have found their groove. Chevy’s has potential.
Chad’s rating: 3.25 out of 5
How would I characterize this burger experience, set at a former gas station? Middle of the road.
The patty was overcooked but still juicy enough. The bun was toasted nicely but fell apart. The caramelized onions were good but not quite caramelized. My tailored burger order—of a fried egg, bacon, caramelized onions, and American cheese—came together nicely, but was missing the bacon. Despite these issues—and overall pedestrian flavor—the burger was OK. I hope that they work through the kinks and bring the burger to the sunny side of the street.
Don’s rating: 3.0 out of 5
“Potential energy is energy stored in a system of forcefully interacting physical entities.” (Physics for Scientists and Engineers)
A burger too is a system of forcefully interacting physical entities. In the case of the burger at Chevy’s case, these entities didn’t all interact the way a great burger should. The patty was cooked well with a nice char, but wasn’t seasoned especially well. The pretzel bun was nice but fell apart midway through. The lettuce was green and fresh but was placed under the bun, effectively sluicing the burger juices onto the plate. The cooked-to-order bacon was crispy and flavorful, which saved this burger from being merely average.
The burger at Chevy’s was chock-full of potential energy. They need to harness that energy to elevate their good burger to a great one.
Michael’s rating: 3.5 out of 5
Chevy’s overall ranking: 44th of 55